Tuesday, March 3, 2020

6. Bert and the Greek Guerillas (Antartes)

http://xanthoulabertwrigley.blogspot.com

Bert and the Greek guerillas (antartes).


Indeed, Slim had wasted no time.  Soon after he joined a group of guerillas, they came upon a village where they found and collected weapons left behind by New Zealanders when they retreated during the catastrophic evacuation.  Slim helped carry the weapons up to the highest village on Mount Olympus, Pouliana, which was also the headquarters of the British Mission.   Once there, only two days later, he was interviewed by the leader of the British Military Mission, Colonel Sheppard.

“While we were in Pouliana, I met the British Colonel, his code name was Hill, his real name was Rupert Sheppard.  Anyway, he said he would try and notify Cairo, to say that we were still alive, Bruce and I.  There were only the two of us”. (From tape)

It seems that the interview Colonel Sheppard gave Slim lasted several hours during which he had to give accurate details about his division, about what part of Australia he came from and about all the events that led up to his joining the Greek guerillas.  Convinced that here was a young man with fire and endurance as well as discipline, the British Colonel accepted him as a member of the British Mission in Greece and told him to stand by waiting for the final orders to come from headquarters in Cairo.  At that time, Slim also mentioned to Colonel Sheppard his friend Bruce, still hiding in Katerini, and said that he was hoping to bring him up to Pouliana soon.  Waiting for the word from Cairo and for the opportunity to go down to Katerini and convince Bruce to join him, Slim decided he might as well do something.  He joined a group of guerillas who were guarding villages on the southern slopes of Mount Olympus from enemy raids.  The bands (“omades” in Greek) would also ambush and attack, whenever possible, German convoys spotted by special messengers who would run ahead and alert the partisans. 

Slim finally managed to slip into Katerini to see Bruce, who writes:

“Yes, Slim was full of praise for the guerillas.  Life with them, he said, was good, if maybe rough.  He described one raid on a convoy when they had cleaned up eighty Germans, at the same time only suffering fifteen casualties themselves.  In addition, they had gathered up a good stock of rifles before clearing off into the hills.  Then he told of how, on another occasion, they had stood guard over a village which had been raided and burnt to the ground by Italian carabinieri, while the villagers returned and dug up their belongings from holes in the ground where they had buried them.  They had seen them with their bundles, their crying, ragged and excited children, safely into the hills, there to build a new village and begin life once more as best they could”. (pp.79-80)

Now Slim had come down to Katerini to convince his friend Bruce to follow him up to the mountains.  Bruce felt more comfortable going, now that he knew the British were involved.

“Later I was to discover that originally three men had been dropped into Greece, the Colonel and two others.  The third never reached his destination – his parachute failed to open.  With the arrival of these two men the organization of the guerillas into an armed and fighting force began, and Slim and I had the honour to be the first and, at the time, only Australians to be in on it.  For, of course, in the end I told him I would go with him”. (p.80)

But going up there was more easily said than done.  Bruce was still suffering from his debilitating mysterious illness, as well as from recurring bouts of malaria, and it was at least a ten hour hike, even from the village of Moni Petras to the village of Pouliana.  He collapsed half-way there and had to rest in a makeshift guerilla “hospital”, housed in what had been a school.  Bruce has warm memories of the young doctor who attended to him, mostly talking with him, since his only supplies were “a small amount of quinine, a thermometer and some bandages”.  “There was nothing much he could do for me, but it was pleasant lying about in that mountain air;  (...)  I could feel the strength coming back into my limbs, so much so that at the end of a week I was ready to go on with Slim up into Olympus to the Colonel”. (p.81)

The rocky track was good for goats, sheep and mules, not for human feet.  Bert remembered that he had to support and even carry Bruce part of the way up until he completely collapsed and had to rest for a week.  There were still several hours of a stiff hike before reaching Pouliana.  And then, it was clear that the partisans weren’t too happy about the Australians going to work with the British.  Slim had proved himself to be a very reliable, resourceful and brave fighter, or as “crazy” as they were during the German convoy attacks.  Naturally they didn’t want to lose him as a combatant.

The following quote from Bruce’s book gives us a clearer picture of who Bert Wrigley was at the time, and the portrait I am attempting to draw of him is greatly helped by what Bruce writes with memories still fresh, only about a year after they returned.  It is certainly in much more detail than what Bert gave me himself later, at least regarding himself and what he was like back then.

“Slim was all for this.  He liked the life, he tried to persuade me that I would like it too.  After all, he pointed out, the British knew about us, knew we were with the guerillas; he had given all the particulars about us.  If they wanted us they could get us at any time, and probably they would only give us some job of a static nature. The guerillas offered adventure, movement and an experience we’d probably never know again”. (p.82)

Bruce naturally hesitated, and after looking at the long steep climb to reach the village of Pouliana in order to meet the Colonel and join the British Mission, he felt too weak to tackle the goat track.  So they stayed with the band of partisans who were indeed happy to have them.  In spite of all his reservations, Bruce admits that in the months that followed “[he] lived as [he] had never lived before – among a mixture of men it might be impossible to collect together under one flag anywhere else on earth”. (p.83)

Bruce also recalls that Slim and he had “a few arguments” on those days, as life with the partisans seemed to suit Slim much better than it did him.

“Slim had ceased to worry about getting to the British.  Life was great as it was.  The sudden race down out of the hills; the swift attack on a convoy, with its attendant smells of gunfire and death, and the shouts of men; the race back to cover, had almost become life itself to him (p.87). (...)  I came to the conclusion that in the first encounter with him [the British Colonel]Slim had given him to understand that he was perfectly happy sharing the wild, untrammeled life of the guerillas, and the Colonel had naturally assumed it was the same where I was concerned.  Yet I would have given much for him to send for us”. (p.97)

Life with the partisans meant not staying in one place more than twenty-four hours, sleeping during the day in creek beds and caves, marching by night, sometimes getting into a village where the Germans and Italians had not been for a while.  On such occasions, they would build a fire in the village square, feast on goat meat, bread, cheese, milk and sometimes wine, if the village happened to be a “grape village”, offered willingly and joyfully by the villagers, dancing and singing all night long.  In his book, Bruce has a striking description that takes up several pages.  Here is an excerpt:

“Gradually their hunger was appeased; the fire died a little, and the shadows from its flames danced over the weather-beaten faces as the singing began.  First one voice would start in the clear atmosphere and then another until all the men were singing, and a volume of harmony rose into the night that was wholly satisfying, wholly pagan”. (p.89)

It is understandable that if he, an unenthusiastic participant, was so taken by such experiences, how much more they would inspire an adventurous young man like Slim.  He was part of these people who exuded such primitive energy and passion.  No wonder he had forgotten the British!
They continued in this way, attacking when they could, retreating when outnumbered and outgunned, and always on the move so that, except for a few trusted messengers, no one knew exactly where they were.  Rumors of the British having come back into the country, supplying the Resistance fighters with money in the form of gold English sovereigns, guns and food through drops from the air, organizing and training the partisans, made the Germans nervous.  Determined to wipe out those rumors and destroy the hopes of the Greek population, they started systematically burning off villages and killing their inhabitants at the slightest suspicion.  In the towns and the cities, they arrested and sent off to prison camps not only all those who actually opposed them but also all those who were likely to oppose them, such as liberally-minded teachers, doctors, lawyers, bankers, as well as less well-educated people who didn’t cooperate or were reported to be helping or hiding allied soldiers and the guerillas.  Reprisals in the form of mass executions were taking place regularly in the outskirts of the two big cities, Athens and Thessaloniki, as well as in smaller towns, following any attack on German troops or convoys.  It was then that village after village in our area surrounding Mount Olympus where the armed resistance had begun, but also throughout the rest of Greece, went up in flames.  Whole families became extinct.  Fear was rampant, and yet the people continued to resist. They continued to support and shelter the guerillas and any Allied soldiers who happened to still be around, stranded in Greece, like Slim and Bruce, after the helter-skelter evacuation in the spring of 1941. 

All this time, the Resistance fighters, with the help of Slim and Bruce, were doing their best to harass the enemy.  The general idea was to do as much damage as they could with the minimum of losses, by blowing up bridges and railway lines to prevent the enemy from moving troops easily, and by ambushing convoys and capturing more guns.  Slim was involved immediately in such attacks, even before Bruce joined them.  Bruce mentioned in his book how Slim, with a small group of partisans attacked a large convoy of German trucks and seized a substantial number of weapons.  They only took one prisoner, the one who wasn’t killed during the attack and who had surrendered. Whether that prisoner actually survived later, that will never be known.  The Greek guerillas weren’t likely to follow the Geneva conventions and, being continuously on the run, they couldn’t establish prison camps to hold prisoners until the end of the war.  I am guessing that the unfortunate German soldier was probably interrogated and then executed.

Bert in my tape still had some memories of that ambush:

“It was before the close of ‘42 we went up to Pouliana and joined with this guerilla band, “Omada ‘Georgaki’ Olympou” (“Band of ‘Little George’ of Mount Olympus”).  There were two ambushes...  We were heading on to the road one night, and we walked into a German patrol, we lost one man, he walked right into them.  The rest of us got away.  Next day, we were waiting for this convoy to come down from the mine.  We were not far from the village, what was its name..., I don’t remember now.  It overlooked the road, there was a bit of a creek at the bottom. Anyway, we shot the convoy up, took one prisoner and then went up to Pouliana. 

There were other “omades” (bands) with us at the time, there were a couple of hundred of us for that ambush.  We knew they were coming and we were waiting on either side of the road.  They were walking on the road pointing their rifles on the scrub, but we were up on the sides.  With light mortar and machine guns, we pulled them up quick smart.  We wiped them out” (From tape)
 
In spite of occasional successful attacks, there still wasn’t much hope of actually protecting the people living in the villages and their homes. The guerilla bands were almost always outnumbered and outgunned. When the Germans decided to wipe out a village, it was inevitable, and as a rule the villagers tried to flee before the fatal event, if they had enough warning. Sometimes they would resist, but the end result was the same, total obliteration.  At the beginning -- as Gilchrist records in his book after interviewing Bert and Bruce --, they helped the people of one village by the name of Tsaritsani (again a village I know) to put on the run the Italians who came to confiscate their harvest of wheat and grapes.  Bruce’s and Slim’s band of guerillas lured the Italians out and fired on them.  The Italians left and the people of Tsaritsani celebrated with the partisans, offering them a feast of meat, bread, and wine.  But then, a little later and unexpectedly, the Germans came back with light tanks and an Italian cavalry brigade and burned Tsaritsani to the ground (Gilchrist, p.69).  Few of its inhabitants managed to escape, and more families were wiped out. 

Gilchrist records the facts, and Bert confirmed them later to me when he came to Greece in 1973 and we visited Tsaritsani.  But Bruce Vary’s poignant account is one that brings life to this tragic event.  Here is a small part of it:

“They sent for the head man and demanded that he call every man, woman and child into the square. (...) The next order they received was a surprising one.  The men were all to be drawn up on one side of the square, the women on the second, and the children on the third. Then the commander in charge of the enemy forces addressed them.  He said the conditions of living and the governing of the country depended on each man, woman and child; therefore he proposed to speak to each separately, that was the reason why he had asked for them all to be drawn up in such a manner.  That the regrettable differences which had lately occurred between his soldiers and themselves must never be repeated.  There must be collaboration between the people of Greece and their protectors.

With that he summoned a firing squad into the square, and before the dazed people could grasp what was happening, short, sharp commands echoed in the still air, and machine-gun bullets ripped into their midst, dropping them where they stood, men, women and children.  A few recovered their senses in time to run, but they were very few. More than seventy-five per cent of the villagers lay in heaps, their blood already beginning to stain and creep across the stones of their square.  Before it had dried the flames belched upwards from the houses left empty (...). Soon the last wreaths of smoke that had risen from the ruins crept against the face of the mountain, there to hang a while, all that was left to tell that grim tale of an effort to obtain collaboration”. (pp.94-95)

Even though they were not present themselves at the slaughter, Bruce and Slim were quite sure of the facts, as they heard the description immediately after the event.  With a few others, the two Australians were sent back to the village to investigate a rumor that amongst those who escaped the killing there were two people who had acted as agents for the Germans: a girl of twenty-two and a boy of sixteen.  They caught the two young people and Slim and Bruce were invited to be present at the interrogation.  What follows in Bruce’s book (pp.95-96) is a description of their gruesome fate in the hands of the guerillas, which confirms that, in time of war, atrocities are committed by all sides...

Other memories recorded by Bruce are related to their biggest confrontation with the enemy.  It was the time when the Germans and Italians, with enough information now about the guerilla groups and the British Mission headquarters on Mount Olympus, decided to hunt their enemy all the way to the headquarters in Pouliana.  An operation of unprecedented scope and scale was underway, and Bruce and Slim were to fight side by side with the partisans:

“Altogether there were approximately 5,000, and with them were four or five light tanks, but we soon discovered their equipment consisted of two-inch mortars.  Mortars, in my experience up to date, were Itie’s best weapons, and the ones which undoubtedly worried the guerillas more than any others”. (Vary, p.98)

Their orders were to stem the attack in an area about six to eight hours down from PoulianaThe ground was not in their favor.  It was out in the open, on the top of a ridge, with no other cover than some stones the guerilla leaders had ordered the men to pile up and to use as shelter.  Slim and Bruce objected to that, they thought that the piles of stones stood out and gave away their position.  In fact they were providing a target for the enemy.  But the guerillas didn’t listen.   However, they allowed Slim and Bruce to find their own shelter, which they did.

The situation looked hopeless.  They were 300 men, sitting on a bare ridge, against several thousand enemy troops. Bruce mentions 5,000, Bert in his tape mentions 3,000 of them on the plain, but he also mentions that an Austrian Alpine Battalion was coming from behind them, from another direction, so the total could have been close to the figure mentioned by Bruce.   Either way, those figures easily remind us of an event in ancient Greek history: the battle at Thermopylae with the king of Sparta, Leonidas, and his 300 warriors against the hordes of Persians.  History does repeat itself!  At least the Spartans were fighting on better ground – a narrow pass through which the Persians had to march.  Also, the Persians didn’t have mortars and tanks at their disposal!

The guerillas had only 25 machine-guns, ten Italian two-inch mortars and a rifle for each man (Vary, p.98).  In addition, they had never fought a real battle until then, they were used to hit-and-run tactics.  Bruce and Slim knew this battle was going to be lost, but they stayed anyway.  They both remember that soon all hell broke loose.  The enemy advanced rapidly replacing constantly the men who fell.  “In spite of incessant firing they appeared to come on uninterruptedly” (Vary p.98).  At the same time, the enemy mortars targeted the heaps of stones, just as the Australians had expected, and the effects were deadly.  Many of the partisans were killed instantly.  Bruce heard a mortar shell land beside Slim and for a moment he thought his friend was dead.  However he soon discovered that Slim, as if by a miracle, had not been hit, as he saw him “staggering away the other side of the ridge!” (p.99).  From that time, Slim had to put up with a perforated ear-drum and be hard of hearing from one ear for the rest of his life.

When the order was given to retreat, Bruce writes that he felt mad: “I suppose it was the only thing to do, anything else would have been suicide (...) but I had never wanted to disobey a military order so badly” (p.99)

Here is an account of that memorable battle as Bert himself recalled it for our interview, still remembering great details some fifty years later, especially the precise names of villages which are still there, and which he asked to visit during his two visits to Greece, in 1973 and in 1981.  My elder sister Eleni and I drove him to that area in 1973.

“From Pouliana, we moved out at 3.00 a.m. one morning, in the direction of Elassona. We moved down onto the plain, down onto the flat.  We took up a position there because we had a report that there were about 3,000 troops, mixed Italian and German troops, with light tanks, artillery support, coming out from Elassona in our direction.  There was a drive in the general direction of Mount Olympus, and allegedly out from the back of Mount Olympus, from a place called Karya. There was an Austrian Alpine Battalion coming out the back of the mountain.  They were driving us back towards Mount Olympus, and this Alpine Battalion was coming out the back in an endeavor to box us in.  Anyway, we were soon blown out of our position, we couldn’t fight out on the flat.  We had to fall back into the hills.

The Greeks were commanding (...) Captain Sotiri, he was our chief.  He was a pretty bright sort of bloke (...)  They turned their mortars and guns on us and tried to knock us out first.  At the beginning, I was with Thanassis, the machine-gunner.  I had the magazines (...) I must have dropped some.  I picked up some and then I dropped some, so I went back to get them.  And then when we were withdrawing, I heard a mortar and I dropped down and stayed there.  I was in a bit of a hollow and I was lying there shooting.  (...) that’s when they nearly got me.  That’s when I got a perforated ear drum. It wasn’t only my ear, my nose was bleeding from the blast.  Anyway, Sotiri came back to make sure I was dead, he wouldn’t let us get caught and tortured.  They’d string you up anyway as a bandit.  He came and I got up and just walked, we walked back together, and he said “den tha pethaneis pote” (“you will never die”).  From the blast, I first thought I was blind, it exploded very very close, on the edge of the hollow.  I was saved by the fact that I was down a bit lower. I must have got hit from the splinters.  I fancy it was a mortar bomb, they had heavy mortars mounted on the back of trucks.  If it wasn’t a mortar, it was a bloody good shot on somebody’s part, only the fact that I was in this bit of a hollow saved me.”  (From tape)

They withdrew. After a fast and painful hike back up to their “throne of Olympus”, as Bruce calls the village of Pouliana, the Australians wondered how long it would take the Germans to make it up the precipitous track.  It may take them a while, they thought, but the Germans would do it. They were desperate to eradicate the guerillas and the British Mission.  Would they all have to make a last stand up there, fighting to the last man, or was there a way out?  Slim thought the Greeks would find a way out, and they did.  There was another track, rarely used because it was rough, narrow and slippery, with a chasm gaping beneath it, therefore dangerous for both man and mule.  And because it was rarely used it had become overgrown and therefore even more dangerous.  In fact one couldn’t quite call it a track.  More than that, it wound down through an area so close to where the Germans had camped for the night that if one spoke his voice could be heard.  And to all of that was added the fact that this particular night was going to be “one of the darkest nights possible for anyone to imagine” (Vary, p.101)

Bruce mentions that Slim already knew that track: “... he had ridden back to camp one night and had gone over the same track the next day in daylight, and realised he must have ridden the whole way with his feet hanging over into space!” (p.103).   It seemed that they were caught, like Ulysses, between Scylla and Charybdis.  Still, the decision was to move.  The British Mission had to be preserved at all costs, with all its gear: wireless, charging engine, fuel, battery, personal belongings of the men and supplies of the guerillas, as well as weapons.  They were all loaded onto an insufficient number of mules, and started, into the dark night, on the perilous journey down.  Bruce thought that if this venture was to succeed “it would be something in the nature of a miracle” (p.101)

Bert also remembers, even some fifty years later, that escape from Pouliana.  Here is a small segment from the tapes:

“When they put on the drive from Elassona and from Karya, the other side of Mount Olympus, we fell back onto Pouliana.  Well, from 3 o’clock that morning till dark we were on the move.  I remember when we got up to Pouliana, a couple of antartes gave us a bowl of cream and Bruce and I ate it, and I went fast asleep for hours, they had to wake me up in the middle of the night.  They had us boxed in but there was one little place they hadn’t closed off at that stage, and there was about 400-500 guerillas, the British Military Mission, some other British officers who had come in the meantime, and we all finished up over the Pindos Mountains”. (From tape)

The Pindos Mountains are actually a long way up in northwestern Greece, and getting there must have been a long and exhausting journey over rugged country.  But by then, Slim and Bruce were used to considering an eight hours’ walk as a short distance, like my grandfather and all other Greek people living in mountainous Greece.

The interesting thing is that, as time moves on, we are witnessing a change in Bruce’s attitude.  He is becoming more and more involved in what seemed like a lost cause to him to begin with -- involved enough for him to say:

“But since it meant an attempt to secure months of difficult and dangerous work – work it was hoped would lay the foundation of Greece’s liberation and independence – I doubt if there was one of us that didn’t feel the thrill of the gamble. (p.101)

For hours it seemed we put one foot in front of the other – on rocks, in holes, knocked our shins and stubbed our toes, stumbled and recovered ourselves, got mules to their feet when they fell. When daylight came we had not only passed the German camp and its sentries, who were certainly no credit to any army, but also were well on our way.  Later I discovered we were heading for the Pindus Mountains”. (pp.104-105)

The one good thing about that dangerous trek was that Bruce got close to the British Colonel, the same one who had interviewed Slim earlier.  He writes that he walked silently beside him for most of that night.  At the end of that perilous descent, Bruce was able to tell Colonel Hill that he wanted to join up with his crowd.  But the British group split off from the partisans and vanished swiftly, keeping their whereabouts secret, so Bruce and Slim had to stay a little longer with the guerillas.  It wasn’t until some weeks later that a messenger came asking for Wrigley.  After further delay tactics by the guerillas who wanted to keep them, they were finally taken to the British Colonel who agreed to have both Slim and Bruce work in the British Mission.  They were to begin there and then.

“It wasn’t long after that that Colonel Hill sent a messenger for me, one of the “antartes” came over with the message, I was to accompany him, and I was to be operative with the British”. (From tape)

So a new chapter begins for the two young men, as the only Australians ever to work with the British Mission in Greece.  Their first job was to learn to decipher code messages received from General Headquarters in Cairo. They also had to learn how to report all German and Italian movements, guerilla progress and their needs and demands for support and supplies. The British Mission in Greece was also informed of the longer-range plans that GHQ had in mind for them, so the operation of receiving and sending messages had to be absolutely accurate and safe.  Naturally, the Germans were always on their tail for the location of the wireless.  All of this had to be done through radios whose generators and batteries gave them constant trouble and headaches.  Just their maintenance was practically a full-time job. There were two radios and so two parties were formed.  Slim went with the one and Bruce with the other.

Slim didn’t exactly like the new assignment. Here is what he says in the tape:

“I wasn’t over happy about it, because I didn’t like being closed in, you know.  I had to learn the codes for the radio, to assist the radio operator, in other words I was just helpful with the knowledge of the language and the country etc”. 

Somehow, he manages, at least for some short spells, to get away from what he considered a “closed in” assignment and get back into action.  He recalls, again with amazing exactness, his next assignments:

“And then one of these other British officers was given the job of sabotage.  He was a sabotage officer, his name was Paul Harker, and I went with him.  We spent quite a while blowing up bridges and culverts, and we went up through Metsovo. (Metsovo is a beautiful village in the area of Epirus, in the north west of Greece.)  We were up there. That’s when the big tunnel coming out from Giannina to Metsovo was mined.  I spent about a fortnight with Paul on that job -- we had drops of explosives.  We slept on the ground, it wasn’t too bad.

Then for a while we operated around Deskati. (Deskati is a small town back in the Mount Olympus area.  Slim kept moving around a lot, and he probably knew the Greek mountains better than most Greeks).  Paul was then taken off the sabotaging bit and was given an area, which wasn’t too far from Kalambaka. (This location is further down south of Deskati, in the well-known area of Meteora.)  We were in that area and that’s where we stayed for a while. A messenger was sent from each group, each group supplied information to us and we transmitted it to Cairo”. (From tape)

In his book, Bruce Vary records in detail their movements and the job they had to do.  It is interesting to see that his tone has changed.   From someone who suffered debilitating sickness, cold, hunger, loneliness and fear, Bruce is transformed to an active and dynamic person, in spite of his still fragile health.  He sounds eager to serve and contribute to the fight against the enemy.  At last he feels he is doing something rather than being passive and just trying to survive.

“Now we had to protect an organization that meant the eventual security of a great-hearted country, and the upholding of our own national prestige”. (p.107)

Besides operating and maintaining the radio communications between Cairo and the mission in Greece, another vital job that Slim and Bruce had to do was to find appropriate areas for planes from Egypt and Libya to drop arms and supplies.  They had to locate large enough areas as far away from villages as possible, map them out and send the information through to Cairo.  Supply air drops were delicate and swift operations.  The planes had to be guided to the right spot, which most of the time was in the midst of mountains and at night. This was done by lighting fires either in the form of a cross as Bruce writes or in the form of a diamond as Bert describes on tape.  Then, once dropped, the supplies had to be found quickly, loaded on to mules and hidden in safe places before the light of dawn and before the Germans came looking for them.  Both Slim and Bruce, always on the go, risked being captured more than once, so close they came to the Germans during their operations.  Often the fires would be spotted by German planes as well, and they “would come in together with our planes, and as soon as the dropping started they’d let hell loose all over the area” (Vary, p.111).  Finding and collecting the supplies that fell out of the sky in white parachutes, loading them on to the 42 mules needed to transport a single plane drop, and all the while dodging enemy bombs wasn’t an easy task!  Bruce says that they had to sleep “with their boots on”, and their getting away was often “touch and go”.  He recounts at least twice when they could have been caught (Vary, pp.114-116).  But it was worth it all for both of them and they continued on.

However, by the end of 1943, Bruce felt no longer fit for the job:

“After twelve months with the English I knew I was coming to the end of my tether. The nerve strain of this life, coming on top of the eighteen months’ fighting, starvation and sickness, made me feel in a condition I knew was no good for the job I was trying to carry out”. (p.117)

And Slim?  How did he feel?  Did he still want to stay and fight? 
Well, apparently not.  Slim had also come to the end of his tether, especially after he nearly died of pneumonia.  He collapsed during a night of a plane drop from Cairo:

Here is how he remembers those events, fifty years later:

“Every sortie, every plane load of stuff dropped, everything was organized through Cairo.  The whole of Greece was gridded, different officers were in charge of different areas, and the drops were organized.  Four fires in the shape of a diamond were lit, and the flares for the night would be green or red, or blue, or yellow, and so on.  As soon as the plane saw that, they would let out the parachutes with arms, ammunition, food, clothing.  It was on one of those sorties I got pneumonia.  I didn’t know it at the time, until I finally collapsed.  I don’t remember the name of the village.  The guerilla group had a Greek doctor.  He checked me and said that I had been sick for some days.  And he cut my back with a razor blade and put on the cups “vendouzes”.  (From tape)

This unusual kind of treatment he received from the partisan doctor, at least unusual to him not to me who had seen my mother perform it in the village a few times to people who were very ill, produced, it seems, a miraculous recovery.  He survived and the razor blade cuts could still be seen faintly on his back. The story is very much the same as recorded by Bruce in his book, so I will borrow Bruce’s more detailed description which is indeed very accurate, with only a couple of small details wrong on which I will comment. 

“In addition, he had been attacked by pneumonia, and no one had thought he would pull through.  The guerilla doctor, brought to him as he lay practically unconscious, had shaken his head.  The only thing he could do, he said, was to give him the Greek treatment known as “vandoosa” [the correct Greek word is actually “vendouzes”, in the plural], a proceeding in which the Greeks had great belief.  He made a number of cuts at the base of Slim’s back with a razor blade.  In the meantime he had six or eight glasses or bottles ready [they are actually special round glass cups with a wide rim and no handle, designed especially for that purpose, and some Greek households still have them], into which, after making the cuts, he plunged a fork, at the end of which was a swab of cotton wool that had been soaked in methylated spirits and set fire to; the bottles were then placed over the cuts.  They were left in position for the matter of minutes, removed while the lighted cotton wool was again thrust into them and replaced, the idea being to cause a vacuum and draw blood.  But the whole set of movements had to be carried out with speed and sureness or the treatment failed.  Whether or not it was due to this treatment, Slim recovered sufficiently for it to be obvious he would live, but he was a sick man”. (Vary p.118)

To Bruce’s surprise, Bert was also ready to leave the guerillas and Greece at this point:

“Strangely enough, Slim was of the same mind.  He had never been quite the same after the mortar episode in the battle for Pouliana”. (p.118)

The pneumonia episode took away any energy and desire for fighting he had left.  Slim and Bruce requested permission to leave the country and it was granted to them by their commanding officer.  But in order to actually leave they had to wait for an official answer from the Cairo Headquarters.  The message with the approval finally came the usual way, through the radio, and it was Slim himself who received it.  Bruce describes him “lying besides his wireless, listless, and feeling rather hopeless (....  [He]) began to decode letter by letter, word by word the permission for his and my release, the plan for getting out”.  And immediately he adds: “Poor old Slim was too ill even to celebrate...” (Vary, p.119)

One would think that from now on things would go smoothly. Instead, now will begin the odyssey of their escape from Greece.  In Patsy Adam-Smith’s book quoted earlier, the person she interviewed and whom she quotes, Sergeant Staff Bill Gamble, didn’t and couldn’t know the details of Slim’s and Bruce’s evacuation from occupied Greece.  The two lines devoted to it, “Eventually Slim got pneumonia and these partisans organized to have him evacuated out by submarine to the Middle East”.(pp.161-162), are correct about his illness, but not quite so about the means of his escape.  A submarine coming into Greek waters to take him away sounds glamorous indeed, and swift, but it is far from the actual events.  The real story, told orally by Bert himself in my tapes, and by Bruce (pp.119-126), is also reported by Gilchrist (pp.71-72), who of course heard it directly from both of them.  It is much less glamorous, with some narrow escapes and unpleasant situations.  There were also some funny moments, which, as usual, Bert remembered well.

Here is how it really happened.   

Soon after the good news, Bruce and Slim loaded a mule with their personal belongings. With mixed feelings of joy and sadness they said goodbye to the people with whom they had shared so much.  There was more travelling at night on rough and tortuous tracks coming down from the mountains. In spite of some danger, everything went well until the moment of crossing the main railway line between the towns of Thessaloniki and Larissa.  This was the area around the town of Katerini, about midway on the railway line between the two others.  It was an area with which they were both fairly familiar. The railway line was heavily guarded by German troops stationed one kilometer apart for fear of guerilla sabotage.  Once they had located those stations, they tried to slip in-between them at night.  But the mule wasn’t as careful as Bruce and Slim, better suited to climb up and down rough tracks than crossing a railway line.  It struck the railway line with the metal shoe under its hoofs and the still air was filled for a few seconds with a vibrating ring.  Immediately, shots and flares went up in the darkness and the mule fell with all of  its load. The two escapees knew they had no time to worry about the mule or about their belongings.  They ran for their lives back where they came from, lying low and hiding into the scrub until things had calmed down.  Then they attempted to cross the railway line once again, this time without the mule, orienting themselves towards the town of Volos and the area called Pelion. It was necessary to keep a rapid pace because they had to reach their destination before dawn, as the arrangements to meet a small ship at a particular spot were very precise both in location and in time.  They were given a map to guide them where the boat would be waiting for them, and they were told they had to be on board that night so that the boat could leave before dawn.   If they were late, they might miss their chance of getting away. 

With a new-felt anxiety, they made their way to the meeting spot, a small cove beneath high cliffs on the coast southeast of the town of Volos.  With eyes wide open they waited in the dark for the signal: a quick flicker of light was to flash a couple of times.  It never did, and dawn came.  Exhausted from the hazardous and tiring trip, disappointed, with no provisions, no blankets to cover themselves on a cold December night, they hid as best they could in an area near the sea with no natural shelter. They waited for the next night hoping that the boat would come, while the thought crossed their mind that if it didn’t they would have to go back.

But the next night it showed up, although they still were not able to leave until the following night.  When they reached the boat, they found much to their surprise that other people were waiting for it as well.  For example a number of guerillas were there to help unload arms smuggled into Greece.  Fortunately, for that second night and the next day of waiting, the two Australians were taken up to a village in Mount Pelion where the officer of the British Mission, Captain Michael Ward, gave them shelter while waiting for the boat to be unloaded and to be ready to sail again. 

Bruce surprisingly does not mention that detail in his account, although I have in my hands three photos taken by the British officer in a village in Pelion, in two of which he is clearly visible.  It must have slipped his memory at the time his book was written in 1945. This incident is also recorded by Gilchrist, who based himself on Bert’s and Bruce’s memories at the time he interviewed them. 

Gilchrist reproduces in his book a clear photo of Bruce and Slim, standing in front of the steps of a stone house, with Slim wearing a scarf elegantly tied around his neck and tucked inside his jacket.  He is also wearing German knee-high boots without laces, while Bruce wears the usual British army short boots with laces.  Bert talked about these German boots in my taped interview, again remembering the funny side of things.  He was still amused, as he remembered the incident in 1992, that when they arrived in Turkey and were taken to the best hotel in town, he came down for breakfast the next morning dressed in new civilian clothes but still wearing his German boots. 

In the published photo, two copies of which are in my hands, the two young Australians look thin but quite perky.  Understandably so, as their ordeal was coming to an end.  At the bottom of the published photo in Gilchrist’s book we read: “Corporal Vary (left) and Sergeant Wrigley, in the village of Veneton on Mount Pelion, 23 December 1943.  (Courtesy, Captain Michael Ward.) On the back of one of the two photos in my hands, Bert writes in his distinctive handwriting: “Veneton, Dec. ’43.  Bruce Vary and Self, 1943.  Day before we left Greece for Turkey.”

The second but same photo has the following written on its back, but not in Bert’s handwriting:
“Slim” and “Bruce – Australian soldiers at Veneton on Mt. Pelion, 23 December 1943.  Photo supplied by Michael Ward, formerly ... (illegible) and now British Consul at Thessaloniki.  May 1972.

 I am not going to try and guess exactly how it happened that two copies of the same photo exist with different inscriptions on the back, but at least it is definite that this photo and two others were taken by Captain Ward.  He either gave them to Bert at the time, if he had the means of developing photos, which is unlikely, or sent them to Bert later, after the war ended when Bert somehow connected with him.  Bert must have given one of them to Gilchrist at the time of their meeting in Canberra, to be included in his book.

Two days and nights after they arrived at the cove, the two Australians together with several others (Bruce says there were fourteen) boarded the ship. “Greeks, Armenians, guerilla officers, English carrying important papers to Cairo or going on leave.  One was going on a month’s leave, we discovered later, to get married and then be parachuted back into Greece”. (Vary, p. 121) Bruce forgot to put into his list the American pilots, whose planes had been shot down in Greece as they were returning from a raid on the Romanian oilfields (see also Gilchrist, p.71).  This was a daring mission executed on Sunday, August 1, 1943, with American planes flying very low for accuracy. It was deemed a success, even though 54 of the 177 bombers that took part were lost, and 53 more were heavily damaged.  The Romanian oil refineries’ output was greatly reduced and five Medals of Honor were awarded to some of these American pilots, the most for any single American military action.

The meeting with six of those daring pilots is also mentioned by Bert in my tape:  

“When we got to Pelion we were joined there by a group of American pilots.  They had been shot down.  They had gone over to bomb Ploiesti, a big oil field in Romania, and on their way back they were shot down and crashed in Greece.  They came with us, they were six of them”.   

Indeed, a third photo in my sister’s possession shows a group of nine people, including Slim and Bruce, whose names are inscribed on the back of the photo in a formation according to their position in the photo: at the top “John Cook and Themie Marinos”, on the left Slim and an “American pilot”, in the center “Hutchinson”, beneath him “Peter” (“American”), at bottom left “Yannis Lazaris” and sitting down on the stone steps of the house Bruce and “Costas Mainos”.  The handwriting is probably that of Michael Ward, who must have given or sent these photos to Slim.  A third photo shows a young man with a round face, light moustache and short beard, hands in his pockets, smiling and standing in front of the same steps of the same stone house.  On the back, in Bert’s handwriting, we read: “Mike Ward, 1943.  Later British Consul in Salonika 1973”. This last detail indicates that Bert wrote this piece of information at least 30 years after he had met Michael Ward in Mount Pelion.  It is quite possible that he may have corresponded with him at some point, and very likely saw him in Greece in 1973, when Bert actually visited Greece, including Thessaloniki (referred to as Salonica), for several months.

Now back to the escape. The boat was supposedly trading onions between the island of Mytilene and the port of Volos in Pelion, but in reality it was smuggling into Greece arms for the British, and smuggling out, through Turkey -- a neutral zone --, people who had to leave for one reason or another. And all of that under the onions!  With German aircraft doing their regular daily patrol, and two sea planes circling over them again and again, the small boat started its voyage into the Aegean Sea, flying its two flags, the Greek and the swastika.  It was Christmas Eve 1943, one that would never be forgotten by the men escaping aboard that boat.  Bruce’s description of that voyage to freedom is unforgettable, and, in spite of everything, it has its funny moments. 

“Those onions!  Never shall I forget their stench in that airless hold, as the sixteen of us trampled on them!  There were other things too – the complete and hopeless way in which we were all seasick – the failing of the engine after we had been going a couple of hours, more hours in which we drifted and continued to be ill. Then, after we at last got the engine going and were chugging along nicely between the strongly fortified islands of Khios and Mytilene, a spark blew on to an oily bag on the deck, and in a second there was a blaze that put the stars to shame.  Sixteen seasick men made a dive for that bag, all swearing in different languages!” (Vary, p.122)

After a last scare from a patrol boat (fortunately it was a Turkish one and not German), they landed at the small Turkish village with a harbor called Alatsata, and were taken to a warehouse on the water front used by the British.  After waiting a while, they were driven to another fishing village where they went through the Turkish customs.  There they were fumigated and vaccinated.  Bruce remarks “I grant we needed it!”  A sixty-mile long drive followed that seemed interminable to them into the night.  But it was worth the wait and the fatigue because they found themselves in the best hotel of the city of Izmir (Smyrna).  Bruce says how pleasantly surprised they were to find people with smiles and a full meal on the dining room table waiting for them.  They were told to wait in the morning for civilian clothes to be brought to them before going down for breakfast.  There were German officers in the same hotel. Turkey being neutral ground, both the Germans and the British could actually be in the same hotel!  So here takes place the incident with the German boots.

“We were still in British uniform at that time, British clothing anyway, you’ve seen that photo of me with the German boots.  That was because I had got my feet frost bitten a few times in Greece.  We used to wear ordinary boots, in the snow they are useless because you’d  push your feet in them and they’d be all wet.  When I was with the guerillas, you couldn’t get decent boots so you had to pluck them from the Germans.  They had these high ones.  

We landed on the coast, a covered truck took us into Izmir itself.  We had to take our clothing off.  Then we met the Turkish chief of police, he gave us the documents, then we went to the hotel in Izmir.  Next morning when I woke up there was a chap from the British consulate putting civilian clothing on to our beds.  There were Germans staying in the same hotel.  I didn’t know it at the time, I became aware of it later.  I had trousers, shirt, tie, jacket, but they didn’t have any shoes.  So I went down to breakfast still wearing my German boots.  They were of course very noticeable!” (From tape)

For the first time in more than two and a half years Bruce and Slim could luxuriate in hot baths and lie in beds with sheets.  It felt like a dream, especially as they found out that all expenses were paid, and they also received one hundred lira a day.  Both young Australians were amazed at the “attention, courtesy and kindliness”, in Bruce’s words, they received as they passed through Turkey and Syria to Egypt, to the port on the Red Sea at the end of the Suez Canal.  Bruce does not give a name here, but he is probably referring to Port Tawfiq, close to the city of Suez.  Although still in the civilian clothes they were given in Turkey, at every point, there was someone waiting to receive them and facilitate their move to the next stop, the next step closer to home.  In one place, Bruce remembers with amazement, five senior officers came to fetch them!
Unfortunately, Bruce had a serious relapse of his debilitating and still mysterious illness.

“But all the time I was getting worse and worse; only that I was able to hang on to Slim’s arm I could not have gone along a street.  However, I did my best to disguise my condition; above everything I did not want to be put into hospital.  But by the time we had reached our embarkation port I had caved in completely and had to be carried on board.  Just prior to that we had been told that if we wished we could go home by way of England.  But it was with great bitterness I realised I would never make the journey, and Slim refused to leave me”. (p.124-125)

So they both sailed on the “Darra”, a new ten-thousand-ton cargo ship, only on its second voyage, equipped with a submarine detecting device, which they surely needed.  The Gulf of Aden was, in the words of Bruce, “infested” with German submarines.  The “Darra” was going directly to Australia.  There was one more hitch for Bruce in the port of Aden which was still a British Crown colony at the time.   The doctor in Aden was of the opinion that Bruce wasn’t fit to travel and wanted to put him ashore and into hospital.  He couldn’t eat anything and couldn’t stand on his feet.  But Bruce wouldn’t hear of it. After a long argument, he was allowed to sail.  But it still wasn’t a clear sailing: just outside Aden they had to rescue some seventy survivors from a boat that had been torpedoed and then return to Aden to unload those survivors, together with another hundred or so who had been picked up by another boat.  On their way back, a scare from a torpedo that came too close for comfort had them all up on deck.  Bruce had to be carried as he couldn’t walk.  Finally they left Aden for the second time in a convoy of forty ships, writes Bruce (p.125), which made them feel safer, but after four days they left them behind because they were heavy ships carrying supplies and were moving too slowly.  By then they were out of the range of German submarines, so they sailed safely and steadily into the port of Fremantle in Western Australia. 

Bert sums up that last part in very similar words:

“There were two attempts at getting us back.  There was a German submarine pack where the Red Sea opens up like the neck of a bottle.  The German submarine pack was working across the Red Sea.  We had to turn back, because we had picked up the survivors of a ship that had been torpedoed the night before.  We picked them up and we headed into Aden and when we came out we came out in a convoy that was going to India.  

(...) It was an ordinary cargo ship.  Anyway, they tried to torpedo us, but they missed.  We zig-zagged and the torpedoes missed us.  They never had another go at us after that.  And then we landed at Fremantle early February 1944.” (From tape)

A last mention of Slim is made in the very last page of Bruce’s book.  It sums up in a few words the bonding that had been formed between these two men.

“There an ambulance was waiting for me, in which Slim accompanied me to hospital, and I believe he resented the nurses doing their job, for he insisted on bathing me himself!” (p.126)

What happened after their return?  Bert recalls:

“We got home eventually, we came by plane, we flew from Perth, eventually we landed here in Melbourne, and I was put into hospital because I was under weight.  Then I was sent up to a convalescent camp for special feeding”.

After about 2 months of convalescing in a camp in Ballarat, the two friends parted company:

“Bruce was on his way up on discharge, and then they asked me what did I want to do.  Well, I said, I wanted to join what they call the Independent Companies fighting against the Japs”.

When I asked him why he wanted to do that, after everything he had been through in Greece, he replied in his usual understated way:   

“Well, I just thought, carry on, you know.....”

Indeed, he did “carry on” for more than a year and here is how it happened:

“Then I went into the Tablelands to do a Commando course, special commando training. (...) They made them into regiments these Independent Companies. (...) The Independent Companies were originally of about 200 men, you go in hit the Japs and race out again. This is what I do, this is what I had joined for.  In the meantime I had an interview for the Z special force, a group of ultra-commandos.  They’d sailed a ship from north Queensland into Singapore, blew up some Jap ships and then came out again.  They got away with that but I believe after that they were caught.  Anyway, I had an interview with this major, I told him what I had been doing in Greece, and he said “I think we can use you”. He said “would you be prepared to land on the ... (I missed the name on the tape), if we landed you there with a shipment of arms could you organize a guerilla force?”  I said, oh yes, I could.  But I never heard from him again after that.  Anyway, I went on and joined this other unit and we went to Balikpapan Borneo.” (From tape)

Bert says little in that tape about his Borneo experience and fighting the Japanese, but we know that Australian Military Units were sent to Borneo as early as September 1944, as soon as US troops landed on the island of Morotai and an airfield became available.  Morotai, which had fallen in the hands of the Japanese early in 1942, was captured by Allied forces, mostly American, on September 15th, 1944.  This rather precarious airfield (they secured only a perimeter around it while the rest of the island was left to the Japanese!) was used as a strategic airbase for US operations in the Philippines and for the Australian operations in Borneo.  Borneo had been taken over from the Dutch by Japanese forces early in the war, in 1941 and they held on to that territory until 1945.  Because of its importance due to the existence of an oil refinery, Balikpapan had already become a war theatre between the Japanese army and the Allied Forces in January 1942.  But the only result was damage to the oil refinery and other buildings. The timetable I have been able to establish based on Bert’s military records indicates that it was at this time that he was sent to Borneo.  He was in the 2/3 Australian Commando Squadron which fought in the Battle of Balikpapan in May and June 1945. This decisive battle concluded the Allied Forces’ Borneo Campaign, after which they took control of the Island. 

I have no other details from Bert himself about his time there, as I didn’t ask him specific questions about that part of his war experiences.  In 1992, I was focusing mainly on his time in Greece.  But I do remember some things that he had shared with me at other times, and comparisons he had made between the two war experiences.  He had said that it was more difficult to fight the Japanese in Borneo than the Germans in Greece.  It was “more straightforward” with the Germans, he said.  “They were out in the open, you could see them coming.” With the Japanese, “they could be within a few yards from you in the jungle, and you wouldn’t hear them or see them.”  A different kind of warfare...

Here is the rest of the tape:

“Then September-October that year, 1945, I was sent home for discharge.  Having been a POW, I was entitled for discharge.  I was on patrol, when this happened:  I fell into a hole and broke the skin on my leg, by the time I went back to the camp my leg was infected and swollen (...)”

My tape ends rather abruptly with that final statement.  And although we talked more at that time about the war, the recording stops here.  I remember sensing that he had finished for that session, and I didn’t ask for another one.  Another piece of information I remember and can add here from other conversations with him is that the “hole” into which he fell was actually a trap, which the Japanese were good at setting deep into the ground as part of their jungle warfare.

Bert didn’t recover easily from that wound, which became dangerously infected.  His malaria also kept recurring and he finally accepted to be discharged, something he had refused in 1944, after his recovery in the convalescing camp of Ballarat.  Among the papers that my sister gave me, an Air Travel Authority document shows that he was flown from the airfield of Morotai Island to Brisbane on the 28th of August 1945. Bert’s official Certificate of Discharge bears the date of 12th September 1945, from Royal Park, Melbourne.  It notes a “Continuous Full Time War Service in the Australian Imperial Force for a Total Effective Period of one thousand, nine hundred and twenty four days”.  Most of them, 1350 days, were spent outside Australia.

For his war time service, Slim was given seven medals, all now in the hands of his one of his sons John, who showed them to me:

1)      The 1939/45 Star, for campaigns in Greece, Crete, Syria,  and the Middle East – West of Suez Canal.
2)      The Africa Star, for those in Palestine, and also for those called forward to Alexandria area in Egypt with a view to embarkation for Greece.
3)      The Pacific Star, for operational service in the Pacific theatre.
4)      The Italy Star, for operational service in the Mediterranean area.
5)      The Defense Medal, for six months service in non-operational areas subjected to air attack.
6)      The War Medal 1939/45, for full-time duty personnel of the armed forces for a total of not less than 28 days.
7) The Australia Service Medal, for full-time duty of not less than 18 months.

Back in Melbourne with his family, Bert, at the still young age of 26 but with a fair share of war experiences and injuries, had to get used to living a “normal” life. One of the first things he did after he came back from Borneo was to look up his friend Bruce.  For the many years that followed, although living in different places but not too far, Bruce and Slim, as Bruce always addressed Bert, kept in touch and continued their friendship. They were indeed “cobbers”, as Bruce had said right after they met in Greece. Bert was the best man at Bruce’s wedding, and Bruce stood alongside him at Bert’s wedding.  There were frequent visits, letters, and phone calls.  Both had families and Bruce’s girls would come down to Melbourne to spend a few days on school holidays with Auntie Xanthoula and Uncle Bert, while Slim and his family visited Bruce’s farm for their own holidays, until Bruce passed away in 1988 at the age of 70.  Not a bad age, for someone who had been through those kinds of ordeals and serious illnesses. Bruce’s daughters still keep in touch and call my sister Auntie Xanthoula.

But we need to go back a little.  After he came home from Borneo, Bert experienced some of the difficulties faced by returned soldiers.  Many of those who had taken part in battles on the ground or sailed on ships that had been torpedoed had seen the horrors of war and were traumatized by what they had been through.  Some of them, like Bruce and Slim, were hospitalized for a time for treatment of illnesses like malaria and pneumonia, injuries from wounds, frost bite or simply mal-nutrition.  After their stay in hospital, many of them were sent to recover in convalescing camps.  Sometimes, in addition to bodily injuries, many suffered from shock and depression and needed medical treatment and support.  Bert’s younger brother Eric, serving on board the HMAS Hobart when it was torpedoed on the 20th of July 1943 in the Solomon Islands, was for many years of his life troubled by a nervous condition for which he had psychiatric treatment with medication.

Feeling restless and not being able to settle down were the lightest symptoms that returned soldiers had to deal with.  Bert, with a more resilient nervous system than his younger brother, managed better the transition from the army to civilian life.  But it still took him some time to find his way. He began by exploring job possibilities in Queensland with Bruce, and when that didn’t work out he tried other alternatives.  At some point, he invested his savings from his war pay by buying into a milk farm in Wonthaggi, Victoria, with his brother Harold.  It seems that things didn’t quite work out in the farm business either, so he decided to settle in Melbourne and look for a steady job.  At about that time, in 1949, an unexpected event took place which helped him to settle down.  He found a job with the Wynvale Wine Company and, in a series of decisive steps, he took over the modest weatherboard home in which his parents and elder brother George still lived in Yarraville, and began renovating it.  He repaired and repainted the outside, replaced worn out floors, changed carpets, re-upholstered the furniture and bought new electrical appliances.

What was the event that changed his life decisively?  He received a letter from Greece and was now hoping to get married, feeling for the first time that there was someone special out there who would share a new life with him.

We will see later how this came about.  But before leaving his experiences in Greece behind, let me add a note about how I came to have some personal and privileged information on that time of his life well before I interviewed him in 1992.

It was during a trip Bert made to Greece on his own in the summer of 1973 that I heard many of his experiences for the first time.  It was his first visit to Greece since he escaped to Turkey on Christmas Eve in December 1943, almost exactly 30 years later.  He had spent exactly two years and nine months in Greece after he had landed in the port of Piraeus in the spring of 1941, and for many years he was dreaming of returning. When we heard of his intention to come to Greece, my husband and I, who used to go to Europe from the US and also visited Greece and my family every summer, suggested that we meet him in Paris where we usually landed.  We rented a car in Paris and, after a week or so in France, we drove down through Italy to the port of Brindisi, and then caught the ferry to Greece.  We first visited my brother who lived then in the city of Ioannina in Epirus, close to where we disembarked from Italy.  After staying with my brother who guided us through mountain villages in the area, some of which Bert recognized (like Metsovo), we drove through the tunnel (the one he and the British officer, Paul Harker, had blown up many years before) and also through the Pindos mountains in northwestern Greece, where he had been with the guerillas and the British Mission.  Bert became more and more excited and reminisced frequently as we slowly made our way through the area of Kalambaka and Meteora (an area where he had operated with the British Mission and Paul Harker again), to the city of Thessaloniki where we visited my mother.  He didn’t want to see the prison camp where he had been for a couple of months, and neither did we for reasons that will become clear later in the story. 

Then we visited my elder sister and her family who lived (and still lives) in Katerini, a town he had got to know so well.   We also drove him to some places he knew, and he looked for people whom he had met during the war.  Some remembered Slim well and gave him a warm welcome. Especially my mother’s cousin, Mitsos Kragiopoulos, who was the young shepherd with whom he stayed on more than one occasion up in Fteri and who had now become a priest. Father Mitsos had tears in his eyes as he embraced Slim thirty years later.  Besides towns like Thessaloniki and Katerini, Bert wanted to see our grandfather’s village, Ritini, where part of our old house still stood and where we still have relatives; the villages of Elatohori, Karya, Deskati (unfortunately, the road to Moni Petras had not yet been opened in 1973), the town of Elassona, and others.  He would look wistfully at mountain tops and whisper “I’ve been up there...” 

I remember that our cousin, the priest, offered to go up to Fteri with him, but Bert’s feet weren’t up to the task, the old frost bite from Greece and injuries he had suffered in the Borneo campaign had taken their toll.  But after my husband and I left for the States and Bert stayed on in Greece for a while longer, I heard that another young relative took him up to those locations by mule. Bert was wearing special orthopedic boots for some years now, and he knew he couldn’t make it to Fteri on foot, let alone to Pouliana, much as he would have liked to.  I remember him joking more than once about the way Greeks, those days at least, calculated distances not in kilometers but in how many hours it would take to cover them on foot.  He still remembered my grandfather saying, when asked how far a certain village was: “Oh, not too far, about eight hours on foot!”
 
Bert spent the whole summer with us in 1973.  It is still for me a great time to remember, our drive through France and Italy and our time together in Greece.  I finally felt I could repay a little my debt to him for bringing me to Australia and for his unfailing and generous support of me during my difficult student years in Melbourne.  Unfortunately, the time in my life had not yet come when I would want to write about him, his story and our story.   The family saga didn’t become a project for me until 1986, after I had been through certain painful personal situations and found myself teaching as visiting professor in the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki.  It was then that I felt this was something I had to do sometime.  (However, it still took me another 22 years to get to it!)  Now, in retrospect, I so much regret not recording Bert when he came to Greece in 1973, as it was the one time when he talked more freely about his war experiences. I have enough memories from the stories he told us then, as we were travelling through the Greek countryside, but having his own words is something else.  Then too he tended to focus on funny incidents, having a good laugh even when he described grim situations, rather than on the harsh sides of his experience in Greece.  But certainly in 1973 and being back in Greece, he reminisced more readily and with much more accuracy.  He was reliving the past, and I was there with him.  I see now how privileged I have been.


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